Pvc racing sim

Pvc racing sim DEFAULT

Introduction: PVC Racing Simulator Pod

1st off this is my first Instructable so I hope I took enough pics and I don't do too terrible with the instructions.

2nd this is not my design, I got the plans from http://s683.photobucket.com/user/simul8r/library/?sort=6&page=1 , so credit goes to simul8r

Step 1: How to Make a Straight Freehand Cut on a Pvc Pipe

Rip a flap off of a cardboard box, make sure its long enough to wrap around the pipe 1&1/2 times. make a small mark where your cut is going, then wrap the cardboard around the pipe making sure the overlapping part of cardboard lines up with the rest of the cardboard on your measurement mark, you now have a straight line and can trace that line onto the pipe with a marker. then cut with a fine toothed hacksaw blade, when the blade breaks through to the inside of pipe start turning the pipe away from you following the line.

Step 2: Parts List and Pvc Cut Sizes

I believe I spent around $120 for PVC,MDF and plywood. I already had everything else needed (primer,glue, ect)

My wheel and pedals were around $300 new but that was years ago, depending on how realistic you want your experience to be there are lower grade wheels on Ebay used for about $50.

2" PVC parts list

T's x14 (15 if you want to add a cup holder)

45 Degree x3

90 Degree x6 (8 with the cup holder)

End Caps x2

2" to 3" adapter x1 (cup holder)

10' PVC pipe x3

Step 3: Mock Up and PVC Assembly

Mock up (pre-assembly without glue) here you need to make sure everything fits and cut lengths are correct, mark all your joints to make sure they line up while gluing. While internal wiring isn't necessary I recommend doing it, I drilled x3 3/8" holes then ovaled them out into one oval hole, though I'd recommend buying x3 2"x2"x1" T's and using those for the wire access points.

Step 4: Cut and Install Plywood And/or Mdf

I'm not going to go into much detail here since your seat and steering wheel/ pedals combo will decide what you do from here. I included the templates for my Logitech G27 setup.

Step 5: Adding a Cup Holder and Decals for PS3-PS4

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Sours: https://www.instructables.com/Racing-Simulator-Pod/


Before starting I want to give full credits to simul8r for the design and plans for the cockpit. The discussion regarding the design and build can be found here. Some modifications were done to the design in order  to meet my needs, but ultimately trying to keep the original concept intact. This blog will only describe my experience during the building and testing so that anybody could have an idea of what to do.

Ok, so finally decided to have a dedicated rig for racing? Got the space, but what about money? Some rigs could be way above our budgets, so building one could be an alternative, but what about the design and time? Don’t worry, a good samaritan has made the design for us and, best of all, available to all of us. Now, how about actually building it? I will cover that part. Before getting into the actual build, lets make a list of materials:

– 30 feet of 2″ PVC pipe

–  7 90 degree elbows

– 6 45 degree elbows

– 19 tees

– 3 2′ x4′ MDF boards

– 12 PVC brackets (to hold the MDF boards to the rig)

– A 200 box of small screws

– Around 20 2″ wood screws

This is the minimum of materials we will need in order to make this rig. I had to acquire the power tools since now I am a grown man and have to get everything by myself, so keep that in mind if you don’t have the tools. Also something to measure is a must, other wise how are we suppose to know where to cut?

Ok, we have it all now lets start!

Ok, we have it all now lets start!

A. Measuring – 1 hour

Measure twice, cut once. This is the most important advice and step of all the process. Any mistakes here will carry on throughout the whole procedure, so take your time measuring. Here are the original plans made by simul8r which includes the dimensions of the PVC pipes. The dimensions of the MDF boards are not here, but they are:

2 24″ x 24″ for the seating area

1 18″ x 18″ for the steering wheel

1 17″ x 24″ for the pedals

1 7″ x 24″ for the keyboard/mouse

1 6″ x 18″ for the shifter mount

Plan A

Plan A

Plan B

Plan B

One tip to cut the PVC pipes: typically they are sold as 10′ pipes. I had them cut at the hardware store in half and then made a plan on which dimensions to cut per pipe. Try not to use the whole pipe for the pieces. Plan them so that a waste is left after cutting them all. That way if a small mistake occurs you won’t be left with a short pipe section, if it happens.

B. Cut PVC – 3 hours

Take your time cutting the PVC. I used a reciprocating saw. Not the ideal way of cutting it, but it did the job for me. If possible, have another person holding the pipe while you cut, that way the vibrations won’t unsettle the pipe while cutting it. A miter saw will definitely cut cutting time and make better cuts, but I would recommend going that way if you can borrow one or plan to get one for future use, unless you have money to spare, in which case, why not get a pre-built rig?

C. Cut wood – 30 minutes

Same procedure as PVC, only this time its wood. A circular saw will do the trick for this one. If you can have it cut at the hardware store, it will be easier.

D. PVC assembly – 1 hour

Time to see how things are going. Simply put all PVC together without any screws or glue. Essentially this should give you an idea of what to do, check any imperfections on the cuts, and have an idea of what to change or modify.

E. Wood assembly – 30 minutes

Same as PVC, only this time also use the brackets.

F. Hardware positioning,  initial view test & adjustments – 1 hour 45 minutes

Position your steering wheel, pedals, and seat to your rig. Have a look as to what to change in order to meet your needs. Have a seat and check your view, hands position and feet position for the pedals. In my build, the pedal rake angle was too steep and the seat was too low for me. I fixed the pedal rake angle by mounting the wood for the pedals below the pipe instead of above. For the seat, I raised it by placing eight pieces of 2 x 4, two per corner and stacked. Finished by placing a second piece of 24″ x 24″ MDF board on top and screwed everything together.

After assembly, all the hardware was in place. Now time for adjustments.

After assembly, all the hardware was in place. Now time for adjustments.

G. Mounting – 2 hours

Ok, not its time to permanently get everything in place. If using screws for the PVC pipes, use two screws per joint, place perpendicular to each other and approximately 1/3 from where the joints meet. That way, if any imperfections were done during the PVC cutting, it will still hold the pipe and not shear from vibrations. If using glue, make sure to fit everything well because that glue, once it settles, there is no going back. Do the same for the wheel and pedals. If you have a shifter, use the diagonal pipe to mount it there. Screw the 6″ x 18″ board to the pipe and cut to pieces of 2 x 4 approximately six inches long. Screw the two pieces together to form an L and screw that to the board.

All modifications are done. Time to do some testing.

All modifications are done. Time to do some testing.

H. Testing – 20 to 40 hours

Time to see if your rig has what it takes. You can skip this step if you want, but I advice you to have a go before doing the painting (if painting is to be done). Check that everything holds up well, that the modifications done actually work and if any improvements must be done. I had a Logitech G27 later and also wanted to mount the keyboard below the wheel since now I have the shifter. My keyboard and mouse were sitting next to the wheel and was kinda uncomfortable. Added a pipe to the bottom of the wheel to mount the keyboard and the side of the rig I did a two step mount for the shifter and the mouse. Due to very cold weather where I lived, I had to postpone the painting until it was warm again. Because of that I put a considerable amount of time behind the rig and have worked around all the kinks. Six months passed and finally the weather got warmer, so time to…

Part of my testing was compromised due to the cat using the rig as a bed. Gotta love my sleepyhead!

Part of my testing was compromised due to the cat using the rig as a bed. Gotta love my sleepyhead!

Keyboard mounted to the bottom and the two step mount for the mouse and shifter on the right side of the rig.

Keyboard mounted to the bottom and the two step mount for the mouse and shifter on the right side of the rig.

I. Paint – 24 hours

First of all it doesn’t take that much time to paint it, so don’t be scared. However, letting it dry and the smell of it to go away is a must. Remove all the boards and, optional, remove the pipes, if they were joined with screws. I left the pipes joined and painted it as a unit.

Six months later, and now I can finish this.

Six months later, and now I can finish this.

How you are going to paint the pipes is up to you. I used Krylon Fusion since it holds pretty good to PVC and no sanding is required. Remember to wear gloves and a mask before painting. I did a little sanding before painting, just in case. MDF board is another story. DO NOT PAINT DIRECTLY!!! The MDF board is made essentially from sawdust, so it absorbs paint like a sponge. Methods for painting it are all over the web, but I didn’t bother following them. Because of that the MDF looks like burnt wood, but it doesn’t bother me.

Ready to paint!

Ready to paint!

Painting the underside. According to simul8r, this is his new chin-ups apparatus.

Painting the underside. According to simul8r, this is his new chin-ups apparatus.

After that just let the paint dry and reassemble. Have fun!

Time to have fun!

Time to have fun!

Update: since I moved everything to the side now I relocated the keyboard tray to the left side.


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Sours: https://alvinnieves.wordpress.com/2013/04/27/building-my-rig-a-simul8r-design-to-the-world/
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