Distressed countertops

Distressed countertops DEFAULT

Secrets Of How to Distress Your J. Aaron DIY Wood Countertop Like A Pro

Distressed walut kitchen countertop

Distressing adds a wealth of character to a wood countertop.

It's important to look at the top and visualize where wear and tear would likely have been the heaviest during the imaginary previous years in the life of your countertop. If it's a small surface the wear pattern may well be fairly even across the top. Larger countertops typically show more "character," near the edges where people would have dropped heavy things or caused nicks and dings down through the years. Maybe a careless toss of a heavy key ring or the slip of a paring knife. Possibly a crate with a bent nail was scooted across the top in a bygone era. It's not an exact science, but a little forethought imagining possible real-world scenarios will give your distressed top an authentic feel rather than just a hodgepodge of random marks.

Countertop distressing tools

You can make similar tools using basic hardware items.

On virtually all tops there will be damage to the edges and corners as they are the most vulnerable. At J. Aaron we like to see a few significant areas where actual hunks have been taken out of the wood. We hit the corners pretty hard with distressing as they would naturally be subject to a lot of wear and tear.

Ok, you've got a idea of how you want to distribute the damage you're about to do to your beautiful top. How do you actually inflict the scarring and what tools work best? First, let's talk about the top surface and then deal with the edges and corners.  Lots of people use a heavy length of chain as a go to tool. At J. Aaron we don't do that. Instead,  we have a more random approach using a variety of tools. Among them are several that make a series of puncture type marks of different sizes. Some are about the size of a large nail and others are more like the head of a pin. We've made up some custom tools to use for this as we do a lot of counters, but for a DIY project you can improvise by driving some nails of different sizes through a small piece of wood. Don't arrange them in orderly rows. Remember we're after a random look. Just hit the top here and there with these using a glancing or partial blow so there is never a repeating pattern. Not too many! You can go back and add more later if you want but it's not possible to remove them if you overdo it. That goes for all of the steps you'll be doing here.

The next thing do is add a FEW nicks and gouges. Think of someone dropping a carving knife or a heavy sharp cornered metal box like an antique tea caddy. Don't get too enthusiastic here. We don't want it to look like the top was used to chop firewood. Less is more in this case. Do make the marks in random sizes and differing depths. You can use an actual carving knife but the better tool would be a small pry bar or a large screwdriver. Use at least a couple of different items to add variety.

Distressed edge profile of walnut countertop

Take some real hunks out.

The last thing we do on the top surface is create some scratches or slide marks. We're not looking for deep scratches so take it easy with sharp objects. The better way is to simply toss down a big nail down or an end wrench and then scoot it across the top with a little pressure. It won't look like much at this point but you'll see the results in the next step. Again, think random. Not many of these are needed and they should be varying in length and direction. It can be convincing to do two or three similar marks close to one another as in something like a heavy fork being drug beneath a carton or crate. Be creative but in small doses.

So now the top is appropriately scarred with the years of imaginary use. We'll move on to the edges and corners. My favorite part. At J. Aaron we get aggressive here but keep to a few significant marks rather than just totally beating up the edges. For this we are trying to actually take some "hunks," out of the wood in order to leave dramatic distress. Again, we have built some custom tools but there are lots of things you can use. A small dull hatchet or heavy cleaver will work. You want a glancing blow to remove a little wood from the profile of the countertop. Avoid doing your damage at the exact center of the piece or in any sort of pattern. Just be as random as you can. If you haven't done this before, it's a good idea to practice on a piece of scrap wood to get the feel of it. Use the tool to take a little of the sharpness out of the corners and make at least one significant marking on all sides.

Sanding will remove the color on the flat surface and leave accents in the marks you've created.

Sanding will remove the color on the flat surface and leave accents in the marks you've created.

Now take a tool, maybe the same you used on the edges, to make some vertical nicks along the edge of the top. This is probably the area where randomness is the most important. You're aiming for the natural checking that would show over time as well as a few trauma marks left by hard use.

Distressed unfinished countertop corner

Darkening the scars adds depth

Use rolled sandpaper to remove color from contours of your profile.

Use rolled sandpaper to remove color from contours of your profile.

All right. The marks are made. Now to highlight them you'll want to add a color. We use a product similar to Minwax wood stain. This is available at any home center or hardware store. Choose a darker color than the wood you're using as you're adding an antiqued effect in which the dark tone will show up in the scarring. Most of the stain comes off in the next stage so don't worry about the overall color of your wood countertop. Simply apply a generous coat of the stain to the entire piece, being careful to get into all the nooks and crannies. We use a cloth and rub it in well. Now, using and square or flat bottom orbit sander and 120 grit paper you'll eliminate any splinters or chips and add another layer of aging as you round off sharp edges. It will take a bit of elbow grease but the original color will reappear accented by the marks of age. You can roll up some sand paper to get into any grooves you may have on the profile. Take off as much or as little as you like to achieve to look you want. This is the point where you can really see the results of your work. You may want to make additional markings if you feel it's warranted. Just go back through the steps of marking, staining and sanding in the area you want to add to.

It's finally finished and ready for the sealer coat. Be sure the surface is free of dust before you apply the sealer of your choice. Follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding the sealer. It's taken a little time, but I think you'll agree that it really is fun to beat up on the wood countertop you've been sanding so carefully and create a totally unique look.

Now you can think about an imaginary pedigree for your top. Was it in service in a bustling Victorian kitchen or an Italian bakery. Or maybe it was once a bar in a grand old hotel. Just get your story straight and enjoy telling friends about your great distressed wood countertop.

Distressed walnut kitchen island

People will think your beautiful countertop is in its second incarnation.

Sours: https://www.jaaronwoodcountertops.com/distressing-diy-wood-countertop-like-pro/

DIY Wood Workshop Countertops

To build inexpensive, distressed wood countertops like I did in my Workshop,I do everything I ordinarily try NOT to do in the finishing process: Sand against the grain and unevenly.  Create dips and crevices. Hit the finished piece with all kinds of tools and object in order to scratch, scrape, mark, dent and ding it.

It actually is a fun process and feels really “artsy”.  I love working the wood over and over, watching it transform into something more beautiful with every coat.  It’s therapeutic. You have to actually build the countertop before you can distress it.

DIY Wood Countertops

DIY Distressed Wood Countertops

I first built a solid MDF Countertopbase. It’s almost 12′ long so I had to join two pieces of MDF together.  I made sure the seam was over the center cabinet for support.

Then I added inexpensive Pine planks by gluing and nailing the planks onto my MDF base.

I covered the exposed sided of the MDF base with a piece of pine that was wide enough to span the thickness of the entire countertop.  (About 2 1/4″ wide with 2 layers of MDF and the pine on top.)  Again, just glued and nailed.

Then I sanded the entire thing like a mad woman.  I used a heavy duty sander with 80 grit sandpaper and then a random orbital sander with 120 and then 220.  I wanted it smooth and all the seams level.  (I don’t own a planer– so I sand!)

After sanding, I filled everything that made it look like I’d glued and nailed several planks of wood together.  Like the cracks in the seams and the obvious nail holes.

Then I sanded again.  Lightly.  Then I vacuumed and dusted off all the sawdust.

Now here’s where it gets fun!

I used a bunch of tools to beat up my countertop.  It’s just pine.  Pine is soft.  It’s going to get dinged and scratched REALLY easily as I use it which will just make it look older and more worn.

I rubbed some black stain all over it and then sanded it with my orbital sander PURPOSELY creating swirl marks to add to the distressing.  The black stain also filled up all the initial dings (etc) that I put into the countertops.

Then I stained the whole thing again with dark brown.  Then black again.  Then some more brown.  Like I said before, it’s an art.  I wanted it REALLY dark and I used two tones to add depth and character.
(*The stain must dry completely between each coat…read the directions.)
Once I achieved the color I wanted, I started the oiling process.  I used Tung Oil.  I’ve talked about Tun Oil before but I’ll say it again, “I love Tung Oil”.
I love that you don’t have to sand between coats, that you can re-coat at any time without any prep and you can just touch up an area of your surface – not the entire surface (and without sanding it down first)!

Just MAKE SURE YOU WEAR PROTECTIVE GEAR because it is serious business if you inhale the vapors/fumes/whatever and it’s nasty on your skin and in your eyes!  (**Read the directions!)

You can brush it on or use a lambswool applicator.  Wipe it on.  Wipe it off.  Let it dry.  Wipe it on.  Wipe it off.  Let it dry…

It takes about 24 hours to dry between coats *and proper ventilation is A MUST.

With every coat, your surface changes.  It gets deeper, darker, glossier and more awesome.

My Distressed Wood Countertops after one coat of tung oil.

DIY Wood Workshop Countertops

…and after three coats.

Building wood Workshop Countertops

I think I stopped at three or four.  The Tung oil penetrates the wood so it takes less each time you add another coat.   It’s cool!

The thing I love most about these Distressed Wood Countertops is that all the marks, dents, dings and scratches, will just make it look even older.  It’s easy to fill those “blemishes” with a touch of Tung oil tinted with a little oil stain or wipe on a little black wax.

Well, that’s how I do it anyway.

DIY cheap wood countertops

*Cross ventilation is necessary for proper curing of tung oil.  It HAS to have oxygen in order to dry.

**While Tung oil is food safe after it has cured, people with Nut allergies might want to steer clear.  Tung oil comes from the “Nut” of the Tung Tree.  Just FYI.

***Not all Tung Oil is the same.  Tung oil products are mixtures of this and that and some mixtures are more of “this” and less of “that” and visa versa…If you know what I mean.  Waterlox is my fav Tung Oil Product but it’s here and there and NOT everywhere.  I wanted Tung Oil NOW when I was ready for it and just picked up what was available at the home improvement store.  It worked fine in a pinch.


Sours: https://sawdustgirl.com/diy-distressed-wood-countertops/
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Distressed Wood Countertops

Grothouse Distressed Wood Countertops are the perfect component for those trying to achieve an antique, rustic, and old-world feel in their home. All Grothouse wood surfaces crafted in Flat Grain Construction and Edge Grain Construction can be distressed to evoke the appearance of a truly original antique.

Grothouse Distressed Wood Countertops

Distressed Wood Countertops | Process

The deliberate process of crafting distressed wood countertops is artfully executed to mimic hard use and natural wear that may be seen overtime on older wood surfaces. The process of distressing is done very carefully to assure that the wear does not look “purposeful” or “factory made”. Distressing can be done to the top, side, and bottom edges of the surface. Glaze and stain can be applied to the wood surface to accentuate the distressing. Five standard levels of Distressing are available at Grothouse.

Distressed Wood Countertops | Level 1

Wood Countertops distressed to level 1 include a variety of lightly worn corners and edges with some light dings and dents.

Distressed Wood Countertops | Level 2

Distressed Wood Countertop to Level 2

Distressed Wood Countertops to Level 2 embrace moderate worn corners and edges; moderate dings and light drag marks.

Distressed Wood Countertops | Level 3

Distressed Wood Countertop to Level 3

Wood Countertops distressed to Level 3 have heavily worn corners and edges, numerous dings, spotty worm holes, and moderate drag marks.

Distressed Wood Countertops | Level 4

Distressed Wood Surface to Level 4

Level 4 Distressed Wood Countertops exhibit very heavily and unevenly worn corners and edges, plentiful dings, clusters of worm holes, plentiful drag marks and termite tracks.

Distressed Wood Countertops | Super Distressed

Super Distressed Wood Countertop

Super Distressed wood surfaces have very heavily and very uneven worn corners and edges, plentiful dings and notch marks, clusters of worm holes, plentiful scratches and drag marks, waffle hammer dings and circular dings, heavy edge nicks, and termite tracks.

To confirm the correct level of distressing, Grothouse will require a customer approved Distressed 6″ x 6″ Sample prior to the production of the wood surface.

Distressed Wood Countertops | Finishes

Grothouse Distressed Wood Countertops are typically finished with our waterproof, permanent Durata® Finish. This finish is available in Satin, Matte or Semi-Gloss sheen. This is a maintenance free finish, but you cannot chop directly on surfaces with this finish.

Glaze and stain can be added to accentuate the distressing. Distressed wood surfaces are typically hand rubbed with Black Glaze. Any wood countertop with glaze or stain must be sealed with Durata® Finish.

Distressed Wood Surfaces can also be finished with Grothouse Original Oil™. Grothouse Original Oil™ is a pure food safe mineral oil used for lasting protection on wood surfaces. Grothouse Original Oil™ Finish is completely food safe and can be used on food preparation surfaces. This finish requires ongoing maintenance.

You can view more Distressed Wood Countertops in the Grothouse Countertop Image Library.

Sours: https://www.glumber.com/wood-countertops/options/distressed-wood-countertops/
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Countertops distressed

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